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“That Will Happen”

  • BmcG
  • Nov 21, 2016
  • 1 min read

One day… actually one of my first days surfing… I got stuck in a set. I swallowed a lot of grunge “ZOO” water. Any energy I had left I lost trying to paddle back out to my “teacher”. Frustrated, tired and throwing up … I voiced my complaint to Professor Mo Mo. His response… “That Will Happen, next time try to go left”


 
 
 

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